What’s in your moisturizer?

Što je u vašoj hidratantnoj kremi?

There are a number of factors that limit the choice of ingredients that can be used in organic skin care products, which makes it difficult to create totally organic formulations. Currently, only salves, butters and balms can be 100% organic. These products contain plant based oils, waxes, essential oils and nothing else. As they don’t contain water, they don’t need preservatives – but consumers may find them heavy and greasy.

Water is the main ingredient of most skin care lotions and creams, accounting for as much as 75% of the total. It may be listed as ‘aqua’ (Latin for water) or indicated by ingredients such as Aloe Vera juice, herbal infusions, seaweed extracts or floral waters.

Lighter skin care products such as creams and lotions are more complicated to formulate as water and oil must be held together by an emulsifier. In addition, any product containing water needs a preservative to prevent it becoming contaminated with micro-organisms.

EMOLLIENTS

Emollients are the oily or fatty part of the emulsion. Emollients prevent dryness and protect the skin, providing lasting lubrication and softening. Natural emollients such as plant oils and butters are soluble in sebum, and easily absorbed and utilized by skin cells. They are readily biodegradable, available as organic ingredients and are of edible quality.

Most high-street skin care products are synthetic emollients such as mineral oils (paraffin wax and petrolatum) because they are cheap and stable. Mineral oils simply coat the skin, which stops the skin breathing and can cause irritation.

Other synthetic emollients include silicones (methicone and dimethicone). Like mineral oils they can inhibit the skin’s ability to release toxins and may cause irritation. They are also non-biodegradable.

 Skin creams?

HUMECTANTS

Skin creams are designed to keep skin moist and so must have humectant properties to retain skin moisture. Humectants draw and hold onto moisture from anything around them.

Collagen, elastin and keratin are widely used humectants as they are compatible with the skin and deposit a protective film. However, they are usually sourced from animals, and so most consumers prefer to avoid them.

Glycerine and lecithin are natural, plant-derived humectants. Glycerine, the most common, is derived from oils and fats made during soap-making. Natural phospholipids such as lecithin are excellent humectants as they increase skin hydration without forming a coating and so allow the skin to breath.

Synthetic humectants such as propylene glycol can cause irritation and should be avoided.

Shampoos, shower gels and soaps?

DETERGENTS

Detergents are foaming emulsifiers found in shampoos, shower gels and soaps. They’re designed to emulsify oily grime, keeping it in liquid suspension until it is washed away. Because all detergents emulsify oils, they can remove sebum, leading to dry skin. They can also interact with cell membranes – causing irritation.

Some detergents are more irritating than others. Harsh detergents such as sodium lauryl sulphate strip away natural protective oils, leaving the skin dry and inflamed. Milder detergents such as coco betaine and decyl glucoside are less irritating and are more suitable for sensitive skin.

Be aware!

COLORANTS

Natural, nutrient rich colours can be found in avocado, pumpkin seed oil or chlorophyll (green), azulene from chamomile (blue) and rose hip or calendula oils (golden orange). These colours are not as vivid and vibrant as those from synthetic colours and may change or fade with exposure to light and oxygen.

Avoid synthetic colours: they are used to make products look more appealing to consumers, but they can cause allergic skin reactions. Some contain heavy metals and may be carcinogenic.

FRAGRANCE

As much as 95% of the ingredients in the fragrances or perfumes used in skin care products are synthetic. Fragrances are a major cause of allergic reactions.

Blends of pure, natural essential oils provide a pleasant fragrance, but with added therapeutic properties. Scents made with natural ingredients may cause skin irritation, but you are less likely to suffer allergic reactions than with synthetic fragrances.

PRESERVATIVES

Just like food, all natural skin care products eventually deteriorate and become unfit for use. Most cosmetics contain preservatives to prevent bacterial and fungal contamination during their intended shelf life. Preservatives are a leading cause of allergy and irritation.

In particular, the following can cause allergic reactions or irritation, or may act as a donors of formaldehyde, a known carcinogen and neurotoxin: Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, 2-bromo, 2-nitropropane-1, 3-diol, diazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, quaternium 15. 

PARABENS

Parabens (including methyl, propyl, butyl and ethyl pareben) are commonly used as preservatives in personal care products. Although parabens are found in nature, they should be used with caution because they can disrupt hormone levels.

Research from the University of Reading published in 2004 found higher than normal levels of parabens in tissue from breast tumours. Research published in 1998 showed that butylparaben is the most POWERFUL of these oestrogen-mimics, while propylparaben can REDUCE sperm production.

LANOLIN

Derived from sheep’s wool, lanolin itself is perfectly safe and may be beneficial to the skin. However, cosmetic grade lanolin can be contaminated with carcinogens, such as the pesticide lindane, and organophosphates, which have been linked to central nervous system disorders.

TALC

The cosmetic talc found in baby powders, face powders, body powders and some contraceptives is carcinogenic. Inhaling talc and using it in the genital area is associated with an increased risk of lung and ovarian cancer respectively. Talc should never be used on babies, both because of its carcinogenicity and due to the acute respiratory distress from inhalation that can result in death.

SKIN DETOX

When switching to organic skin care products you might experience skin detox. Natural beauty therapists consider this a period of adjustment – your skin is in the process of cleansing itself a man-made chemicals. Be patient! It may take 2-3- weeks before you see a visible difference in your skin. This skin detox can be great assisted by undergoing an internal detox.

In conclusion, it is no wonder so many people are getting cancer. How many skin products do you use on daily base that are carcinogenicity? The majority of people have been using toxic chemicals since they were little.  If you are skeptical about what you have just read, I recommend you do your own research and find out for yourself.

Martina, Alter Ego Style

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Frank carcinogens are more commonly known carcinogens that appear on product labels. However the consumer can easily overlook these ingredients as they have complex bio-chemical names. Hidden carcinogens are ingredients that break down to release carcinogens or are pre-cursors to these carcinogens. They often cause genetic damage or are what they call “genotoxic”. These “hidden” carcinogens aren’t listed on product labels at all!

Hormone Disrupters Can Promote Thyroid Disorders And Are Linked To Cancer.

When you consume a hormone mimicking chemical, it tricks your body into performing various functions that the natural hormone would tell your body to do. For instance, a xenoestorgen mimics estrogen which can tell the cells within the breast to grow and develop. This one hormone mimicking compound has been linked to the development of endometriosis, decreased sperm production and the development of breast cancer.

There are roughly thirty chemicals found in PCPs and cosmetics that can cause hormone dysregulation.

Many products contain what they call “penetration enhancers” that are designed to optimize the uptake of other ingredients into the skin. In a way, they open the door to allow the chemicals to walk into your house.

You may not have a sensitivity to a particular chemical right away, but over time as your chemical and toxic burden increases you may find you become “chemically sensitive”, or you break out in a rash and perhaps develop a headache. There are about fifty allergic ingredients in perfumes, fragrances, PCPs and cosmetics.

The analysis, performed supported by the Breast Cancer Fund, Environmental Working Group, Clean Water Action, and other public and environmental health organizations found that top-selling fragrance products a laundry list of unlabeled secret ingredients that can impact our health in a number of ways. Below is a list of ingredients that they have recognized can cause allergic reactions.

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Postoji niz čimbenika koji ograničavaju izbor sastojaka koji se mogu koristiti u organskim proizvodima za njegu kože, zbog čega je teško stvoriti potpuno organske formulacije. Trenutno, samo melemi, maslaci za tijelo i balzami mogu  biti 100% organski. Ti proizvodi sadrže biljnu uljnu bazu, voskove, eterična ulja i ništa drugo. Zbog toga što ne sadrže vodu ne trebaju ni konzervanse, ali potrošači ih često smatraju teškim i masnim.

Voda je glavni sastojak većine losiona za njegu kože i krema, čak 75% ukupnog sadržaja otpada na vodu. Ona može biti navedena kao “aqua” (latinski naziv za vodu) ili označena kroz sastojke kao što su sok aloe vere, biljni čaj, ekstrakt algi ili cvjetne vodice.

Proizvodi za njegu kože, kao što su kreme i losioni složeniji su za formulirati jer sadže vodu i ulje koji se međusobno ne mješaju pa su potrebni emulgatori da ih održavaju zajedno u smjesi. Osim toga, bilo koji proizvod koji sadrži vodu treba konzervans kako bi se spriječilo kontaminiranje mikroorganizmima.

EMOLIJENSI, UBLAŽIVAČI, SREDSTVA KOJA RAZMEKŠAVAJU

Emolijensi su ulja ili masni dio emulzije. Emolijensi spriječavaju isušivanje i štite kožu, pružajući trajno podmazivanje i omekšavanje. Prirodni emolijensi poput biljnih ulja i maslaca topivi su u sebumu, lako se upijaju i korisni su stanicama kože. Također, oni su bio-razgradivi, dostupni kao organski sastojci i jestive kvalitete.

Većina drogerijskih proizvoda za njegu kože sadrži sintetičke emolijense poput mineralnih ulja (parafin vosak i petrolatum) jer su jeftina i stabilna. Mineralna ulja lako se nanose na kožu, maziva su, ali i zaustavljaju disanje kože te mogu izazvati iritaciju.

Ostali sintetički emolijensi su silikoni (methicone i dimethicon). Kao mineralna ulja mogu inhibirati sposobnost kože da se oslobodi toksina i izazvati iritacije. Oni nisu bio-razgradivi.

Kreme

TVARI ZA ZADRŽAVANJE

Kreme su napravljene kako bi održale kožu vlažnom te stoga moraju imati tvar za zadržavanje svojstva. Takve tvari privlače i zadržavaju vlagu od svega oko sebe.

Kolagen, elastin i keratin se naširoko koriste kao tvari za zadržavanje jer su kompatibilni s kožom i tvore “zaštitnu foliju”. Međutim, oni obično potječu od životinja zbog čega ih većina potrošača izbjegava.

Glicerin i lecitin su prirodne, biljne tvari za zadržavanje. Glicerin, koji se koristi u najvećoj mjeri, derivat je ulja i masti koja nastaju u proizvodnji sapuna. Prirodni fosfolipidi poput lecitina su izvrsne tvari za zadržavanje jer povećavaju vlažnost kože bez formiranja premaza i tako omogućuju koži da diše.

Sintetičke tvari za zadržavanje poput propilen glikola mogu izazvati iritacije i treba ih izbjegavati.

Šamponi, gelovi za tuširanje i sapuni?

DETERDŽENTI

Deterdženti su pjenasti emulgatori koje nalazimo u šamponima, gelovima za tuširanje i sapunima. Oni se stavljaju u proizvode kako bi vezali masnu prljavštinu, držeći ju u tekućoj fazi dok se ne ispere. Budući da svi deterdženti vežu na sebe ulja, oni uklanjaju prirodni sebum, što dovodi do suhe kože. Također mogu se nametati stanicama uzrokujući iritaciju.

Neki deterdženti iritiraju kožu više od drugih. Jaki deterdženti poput sodium lauryl sulphate oduzimaju koži prirodna zaštitna ulja ostavljajući ju suhom i upaljenom. Blaži deterdženti poput coco betaine i decyl glucoside su manje iritantni i više pogodni za osjetljivu kožu.

Budite svjesni!

BOJILA

Prirodne, hranjive tvari bogate bojom mogu se naći u avokadu, bučinom ulju ili klorofilu (zelena), azulenu od kamilice (plava) i šipku ili nevenovom ulju (zlatno narančasta). Ove boje nisu tako intenzivne i vitalne kao sintetičke i mogu se promijeniti ili nestati izlaganjem svjetlu i kisiku.

Izbjegavajte sintetičke boje: one se koriste kako bi proizvodi izgledali oku ugodniji, a mogu izazvati alergijske reakcije na koži. Neke sadrže teške metale i mogu biti kancerogene.

MIRISI

Iako je 95% sastojaka u mirisima koji se koriste u proizvodima za njegu kože sintetsko, opće je poznato da su upravo mirisi glavni uzrok alergijske reakcije.

Mješavine čistih, prirodnih eteričnih ulja pružaju ugodan miris, ali i dodana terapeutska djelovanja. Mirisi napravljeni od prirodnih sastojaka mogu izazvati iritaciju kože, ali će zato rijetko izazvati alergijske reakcije.

KONZERVANSI

Baš kao hrana, i proizvodi za njegu kože mogu se pokvariti. Većina kozmetike (preparativne i dekorativne) sadrži konzervanse kako bi se spriječile bakterijske i gljivične kontaminacije tijekom njihovog planiranog roka trajanja. Konzervansi su vodeći uzrok alergijama i iritacijama.

Konkretno, sljedeće može izazvati alergijske reakcije ili iritaciju, djelovati kao donator formaldehida, dokazana kancerogena tvar i neurotoksin: Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, 2-bromo, 2-nitropropane-1, 3-diol, diazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, quaternium 15.

PARABENI

Parabeni (uključujući metil, propil, butil i etil pareben) obično se koriste kao konzervansi u proizvodima za osobnu njegu. Iako se parabeni mogu naći u prirodi, oni bi se trebali koristiti s oprezom jer mogu poremetiti razinu hormona.

Istraživanje Sveučilišta Reading objavljeno u 2004. pronašlo je veće od normalne razine parabena u tkivu tumora dojke. Istraživanje objavljeno u 1998 pokazalo je da butilparaben  najbolje oponaša estrogen, dok propilparaben može smanjiti proizvodnju sperme.

LANOLIN

Izveden iz ovčje vune, lanolin je savršeno siguran i može biti koristan za kožu. Međutim, kozmetički lanolin kontaminiran je s kancerogenim tvarima, poput pesticida lindana i organofosfata, koji su povezani s poremećajem središnjeg živčanog sustava.

TALC (eng.)

Kozmetički talc (eng.) nalazimo u dječjim puderima, puderima za lice, puderima za tijelo i nekim kontraceptivima – talc (eng.) je kancerogen. Udisanje talc-a i korištenje talc-a u predjelu genitalija povezani su s povećanim rizikom od raka pluća i raka jajnika. Talc nikada ne treba koristiti na bebama, i zbog karcenogenosti i zbog akutne respiratorne teškoće koje nastaju udisanjem, a mogu dovesti do smrti.

DETOKSIKACIJA KOŽE

Prebacivanjem na organske proizvode za njegu kože možda ćete doživjeti detoksikaciju kože. Terapeuti prirodne ljepote  smatraju to razdoblje prilagodbe – vaša koža je u procesu čišćenja od kemikalija. Budite strpljivi! To može potrajati 2-3  tjedna prije nego što vidite razliku u vašoj koži. Ova detoksikacija kože može biti od velike pomoći i u unutarnjoj detoksikaciji tijela.

U zaključku i ne čudi što toliko ljudi obolijeva od raka. Koliko proizvoda za kožu koristite i to na dnevnoj bazi, a da sadrže kancerogene tvari? Koliko uopće proizvoda za kožu imate koja ne sadrže kancerogene tvari? Imate li blisku osobu koja boluje od raka? Većina ljudi u kontaktu je s otrovnim kemikalijama od malih nogu stoga zaista ne čudi da je rak postao bolest današnjice. Ako ste skeptični o tome što ste upravo pročitali, preporučujem vam napraviti svoje vlastito istraživanje i saznajte sve što vas zanima.

Martina, Alter Ego Style

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U prilogu su detalji s kojima možete uspoređivati deklaracije preparata koje koristite, nadam se da će ovo pomoći svima koji su pobudili svijest o kemiji oko nas!

Frank carcinogens are more commonly known carcinogens that appear on product labels. However the consumer can easily overlook these ingredients as they have complex bio-chemical names.

Hidden carcinogens are ingredients that break down to release carcinogens or are pre-cursors to these carcinogens. They often cause genetic damage or are what they call “genotoxic”. These “hidden” carcinogens aren’t listed on product labels at all!

Hormone Disrupters Can Promote Thyroid Disorders And Are Linked To Cancer.

When you consume a hormone mimicking chemical, it tricks your body into performing various functions that the natural hormone would tell your body to do. For instance, a xenoestorgen mimics estrogen which can tell the cells within the breast to grow and develop. This one hormone mimicking compound has been linked to the development of endometriosis, decreased sperm production and the development of breast cancer.

There are roughly thirty chemicals found in PCPs and cosmetics that can cause hormone dysregulation.

Many products contain what they call “penetration enhancers” that are designed to optimize the uptake of other ingredients into the skin. In a way, they open the door to allow the chemicals to walk into your house.

You may not have a sensitivity to a particular chemical right away, but over time as your chemical and toxic burden increases you may find you become “chemically sensitive”, or you break out in a rash and perhaps develop a headache. There are about fifty allergic ingredients in perfumes, fragrances, PCPs and cosmetics.

The analysis, performed supported by the Breast Cancer Fund, Environmental Working Group, Clean Water Action, and other public and environmental health organizations found that top-selling fragrance products a laundry list of unlabeled secret ingredients that can impact our health in a number of ways. Below is a list of ingredients that they have recognized can cause allergic reactions.

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